Cilan Head & The Path to Rome

With the weathers bad in the mountains Me and Glyn decided to do what all hardened climbers do, Run away to to the coast were it not raining.We ended up on the Llynpenisenla. Were the sun was shining and the crags were dry. With Glyn working at 6 it was only a flying visit. Our minds set on The Path to Rome a two pitch E3 5c, 5c. The first pitch is a 46m raising traverse along gritstonesk breaks above the sea. The second pitch takeing you to the top of the crag. The second pitch has some nice climbing but the first pitch is the one.
  With both of us wanting the glory of the main pitch we toss a coin and Glyn chose tales Wales never fails, But lucky for me it failing for him meaning i had the Main pitch (Psyche!!). In the Guide book it says something about taking two racks of medium sized cam and it ain't wrong as i used all two set with easy. The climbing on the first pitch is fairly straightforward  With an amazing atmostphere, with only one tricky section.Which allow me to soak up the surroundings. All in all it soft for the grade but would be a ball ache if you were to fell off because you would have nothing to pull yourself back onto the route with. The second pitch was over in a flash once glyn had racked up. from the belay their is a couple of move of 5b which takes you into the upper groove with a sort section of vertical grass climbing. we had been given some beta to drop a ab rope down the top out section as a mean of passing this section stress free and it worked.

Vivian Quarry

A day of on off drizzle. with a forecast that good Me, Ewan and Justin headed to Vivian Quarry for some slate action. we ended up on the Dervish level. We started preceding with me trying to run up Last Tango in Paris as a warm up but forgetting about the trick section just before the overlap. Justin and Ewan both ran up on second. On the ab down I had a quick gander at the RP placement on Flash Dance. Ewan was eyeing up the Comes The Dervish as his first E3 lead. But with drizzle, a bold start and a cold to contend with Ewan decided against it. So with my RP beta for flash dance decided it was a goer. Flash Dance take a line starting at Last Tango in Paris and follows a line of holds across the slab to meet the dervish at half height. The climbing is steady but bold, And a faith in small wires is need. the RP placement is good but very small and you have to go quite a few meters before the safety of the Dervish. Great route with Brillaint slab climbing. probably soft in the grade for E5 6a but i'll take the tick.

Move unwillingly away from the RP place. But attentive belay from funny pants Ewan

Cwm Glas Bach

We spent the afternoon at Hidden wall. Tony started off with Rimsky Korsakov, A pumpy E5 6a which is run out with ok gear. Next up  was What a Differences a Day Makes, this is a brilliant  route worth 3 stars in my opinion. It a steep E4 6a  with very good gear if you can hold on long enough to place it. Lucky for me I just about held on all the way to the top. The guide book says you need a large cam at the top but there is a nice spike just above the placement so not really necessary. Then Tony had a go at Melon Transplant, a tough E5 6b. he was not successful and on his last attempt the tat around the second peg snapped but lucky the first peg can into play just before he would of hit the floor, Lucky Man. After that it started spitting so we used the excuses to head back to the car and tea and medals.

LPT

Head down to Lower Pen Trwyn this morning for a quick hit before having to be in Caernafon for 2. Got there for 10 but even by then the rock was heating up. Started the day with Kaffe Fasset  a *** star 6b+

on the right hand end of LPT. An good route which is a route of two half, it has a steep mantel low down and a swing onto the headwall right at the top with some nice jug pulling in the middle.
   Then back over to the left side of the crag were it steeper to have a go at Refain a 7b. i've had a go on refain before and was hoping for a clean lead of it this time round. it has a nice techy start then it kick back at the top with a powerful move on an undercut to a very small crimp at the top. I just could not hold on to the top crimp for love nor money. so i just had a play on the move before it was time for me to race over to caernafon. next time hopful.

A Hot day at Rhoscolyn

With a week of good weather it felt like it was time to visit the coast. So with Andy and Glyn, We headed over to Rhoscolyn, For a bit of Sun, Sea and in the end some soloing.
   The day started at Llawder (The Red Crag). Were Glyn did a swift Lead of The Sun, A awesome E2 5c up a Groove in the middle of the cliff.  it had everything from steep jug pulling to laybaking and even a bit of jamming. After a chill out in the sun when went to seek out something a bit more exciting. So with a sort walk along the cliff tops we headed to Sea Cave Zawn, Which is home to the famous route Electric Blue. The route is Graded E4 5c but is often done as a DWS (Deep Water Solo).

   After a nosey at it Me and Glyn decided to give it a go. with a quick run up a Diff around the corner called Symphony Crack.Then to the big one. The climb starts with a 5b move which is still over a ledge, but after that it safely over the sea. A few tricky moves leads you to a big under cut which you can regain your composure and some strength for the head wall. some nice 5a climbing to the top and success. A memorable Route and a experience I will never forget.