Sunday 5 September 2010

Vivian Quarry

A day of on off drizzle. with a forecast that good Me, Ewan and Justin headed to Vivian Quarry for some slate action. we ended up on the Dervish level. We started preceding with me trying to run up Last Tango in Paris as a warm up but forgetting about the trick section just before the overlap. Justin and Ewan both ran up on second. On the ab down I had a quick gander at the RP placement on Flash Dance. Ewan was eyeing up the Comes The Dervish as his first E3 lead. But with drizzle, a bold start and a cold to contend with Ewan decided against it. So with my RP beta for flash dance decided it was a goer. Flash Dance take a line starting at Last Tango in Paris and follows a line of holds across the slab to meet the dervish at half height. The climbing is steady but bold, And a faith in small wires is need. the RP placement is good but very small and you have to go quite a few meters before the safety of the Dervish. Great route with Brillaint slab climbing. probably soft in the grade for E5 6a but i'll take the tick.
Move unwillingly away from the RP place. But attentive belay from funny pants Ewan

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